Once upon a time in Quito, Ecuador – 

Under an old stone bridge, the precipice of Old Town, there was a graffiti covered social club.  A young American couple, though some would say he is ‘getting on in years’, entered through the prison bar entry door.  The couple was in need, and seeking refreshment.  A frosty, local brew adequately quenched their thirst.  The confluence of Ecuadorian patrons proudly sipped pilsners and slurped dark coffee.  Suddenly, funny cigarettes were lit aflame, and an earthy odor filled the room.  The man, though ‘on in years’ approached the innkeeper, a Keeper, he observed, perhaps a bit short in years.  

“Good sir, might I trouble you for a cig and a light?” he asked, introducing himself.

“Good evening sir, I’m grateful for your patronage.  I beg your pardon Sir, but we do not sell such wares here” he responded with a steady assuredness.  

“Ah, I see” the man said, resigning himself back to his seat.

“However, we do barter.  No money” the manager added hopefully.  

The American couple proceeded to beseech the Keeper for an idea.  “But, we are simple travelers.  We know not the customs of your lands.  All, we can offer is the gift of song, and this relic, a harmonica.”  (A relic, recently acquired from a local jester)

“I accept your gift” the Keeper responds.  

The Inn rejoiced in revelation, and several hours were spent sharing the knowledge of both Northern and Southern hemispheres.  

So, Cuenca is the second largest Colonial city in Ecuador.  And, I was pretty confident that I would enjoy it.  It’s a smaller city, but cleaner and contains a better climate.  For me Cuenca was a lot of fun.  I spent two nights in a social hostel.  I talked shit in beer pong, introduced and subsequently dominated ‘Survivor Flip Cup’ and had a couple of a really good nights sleep.

But, I’m worried that Cuenca will always have the unfortunate fate of being where I went to right before Vilcabamba.

Vilcabamba, a city known locally by travelers as Vilca-trap, is a paradise in Southern Ecuador.  I planned on spending one night, and have spent almost 9 full days here.  Nothing compared to the dozens of others, days into weeks, weeks into months and months into years.  For me, it started on the drive from Cuenca.

I sat comfortably in a well appointed van, sharing the ride with a small group of travelers.  The first, a man in his mid-60s, an American emigrant.  He spent his life as a photographer for Time Life Magazine and has been to almost every country, climate and landscape imaginable.  He came to Vilcabamba 10 years ago and never left.  A German man, with a few weeks of travel time, choosing to spend all of them in Vilcabamba. A young couple, choosing to spend 1/3 of their trip in Vilca-trap.

The drive was beautiful.  As we entered the region, we are confronted with a huge range of mountains and a lush, green valley.  A rainbow, at least 400 meters from stem to stem, spanned the entire valley, seemingly following the van.

Some of my favorite moments of my trip have been spent staring out bus windows.  This trip surpassed them all.  Aside from the natural beauty, I was filled with an overwhelming introspectiveness.  Feelings of appreciation, for the trip and for what awaits me back home flooded through the music in my headphones.  I emailed the hostel and asked to extend my stay to two days.

We arrive in Vilcabamba and drive straight through to the Ichaluyma Hostel.  The view is perfect, the air is sweet and the hostel is perfect.  I immediately asked to extend my stay to 3 nights.

The hostel is filled with a well-traveled crowd.  Germany, Netherlands, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Colombia, USA, England and Slovenia.  Travelers, on the road already for 12+ months, some as long as 3 years.  Volunteers, at permaculture farms.  Spiritual seekers, mediation centers, San Pedro and Ioasca ceremonies.  I asked to extend my stay to 6 nights.

It also contains a daily yoga program, free.  The open air platform, has views of the valley and a cooling breeze.  The weather here is heavenly.  T-shirt, pants, sandals.  Clouds will blow through each day, maybe a brief rain and back to sun.  It’s beautiful watching the sky change each day, watching the clouds change shape.

It’s here, I invented a game called hammock punching.  Hammock punching requires a hammock and a wood railing with space in between the rails, at least big enough to fit up to your elbow through the rails.  The game begins with the Player swinging their hammock away from the rails as hard as possible.  Points are rewarded each time the player successfully thrusts his arm in between two rails.  The amount of points  awarded depends on the proximity of the gap, and the length of Players arm that safely clears the threshold.  If the Players arm makes contact with either rail, the round is over and the Player receives the allotted number of points.

OK, so I relaxed a lot.  Meals were shared with friends. (all extending their stays) I extended my stay to 8 nights.  (no mas norte del Peru) How could I miss the ping pong tournament, or the pool tournament, or air yoga.  And, I got to spend Christmas with some great people.  A big party at the hostel bar on Christmas Eve.  A movie on Christmas morning and 20 people noshed down a 5 course, gourmet dinner. Followed up with a night of billiards and ping pong.

December 26th, I inquire ‘Exactly, how long does the overnight bus take to get to Peru? (where I have a flight at 7:30 AM on the 28th of December)’

At a total time of 8 hours, I have to leave on the 27th during the day and spend the night by the airport.  I guess I can’t extend my stay anymore.

Goodbye Vilcabamba.