I will walk into your Jardin
Jardin, a small village known for it’s beautiful gothic church, it’s main plaza filled with caballeros (Colombian cowboys) and it’s tranquil atmosphere. We didn’t originally plan on going, but, it turned out to be one of my favorite places in Colombia.
We rolled into town after a 6 hour bus ride from Medellin. Selva de Cafe, is a lovely hostel about 30 minutes walk outside of the main town. Uphill. We commissioned a ‘tuk tuk‘ and made our way there. I’ll admit, heading up a dark winding road with no reference for where we were was a little frightening. Of course, everything was OK. Except, we arrived at the hostel and no one was there. Everything was shut down. A woman came out and told us to walk down this dirt road until we got to a house where we would find our host.
We start down the path and it begins to rain. After a few minutes we walk past a small house with a beagle sitting on a outdoor rocking chair. All the lights are off, and the doors are closed. We continue on the path, the beagle politely walking with us. Our next stop is a house with a small wooden bridge and pond leading to a two story house. All the lights are off. Drat!
We walk back to the our original spot to try and find the other woman and she’s gone. Stranded! We try calling the hostel and I’m leaving a surprisingly fluent voicemail when a person pops out of the small building. An Australian. How are they everywhere and always so helpful? He told us to actually knock on the door at the house with the pond, and if there is no answer there are still like 3 other bunk beds in the dorm and we could crash there. Beagle in tow, we head back down the dark road.
This time, we knocked and our call was answered! We were greeted by two more adorable dogs and our lovely host. A quaint room, and comfortable bed awaited us. We crashed, and enjoyed the sound of the river as we fell asleep.
The next day we had a breakfast made for us by our host. And, we formally met the Australian. Nick. Nick’s been traveling for 20 months! One of my favorite parts of traveling is meeting different people. Hearing Nick tell the story of never really traveling, then doing a 2 week trip to Nepal. After which, he returned to Australia, quit his job and has been traveling ever since. It’s inspiring really. Anyone can do it! We had breakfast and talked and walked into town together before parting ways.
We started on a hike, which was more of a stroll down a dirt road. The views in the Antioquia region of Colombia are awe-inspiring. In Jardin, we were at 6000′ elevation and surrounded by green mountains, tall trees and rushing rivers. Coffee plants, banana trees and all manner of colorful birds. I led us off the path and through this muddy set of ‘stairs’ through those same coffee plants and banana trees. We ran into a mustachioed Colombian picking coffee beans who smiled larger than life when we asked if this was the right way. He politely led us back in the right direction. Maybe we grabbed a few coffee beans on the way out.
Our next stop was a man made tunnel through the mountain. The gate is locked, and you have to knock on someones door and ask them to let you pass. It cost 5000 pesos, or about $1.50. My fear of caves long behind me, I valiantly led the way through the tunnel. Flashlight in hand. As we enter, I see a roost of bats on the ceiling, and show Steph the snapping trick. Snap, and watch the bats fly.
We continue through the tunnel, under a constant barrage of bats. Sweeping towards our heads. We adopted this walk, which can only be described as a walk of terror. Slightly hunched, arms covering our vitals while holding back screams. Our guide, a 60 year old woman in sandals, thought it was hilarious. It kind of was.
The hike ended at a cable car. Although, gone was the sophisticated engineering of the Medellin cable car. This was a wooden crate, leaning haphazardly and operated by a portly Colombian woman at a mechanical wheel. I think she lived in this small shed. All aboard!
The rest of our night was spent relaxing, enjoying the views and eating.
The next morning, it was time for another adventure! We were going paragliding. The place told us to be there at 11, no later. Timing was of the essence. At 11:30, they showed up. Colombians…
We piled in a jeep and drove off-road for about 30 minutes to the jump site. Steph jumped first. So cool to watch her soar through the sky.
After our jump, we found a lunch spot offering sweet and savory crepes. We ordered 4. I tried to order 6 but the French owner wouldn’t allow it. And then it was on our way to Bogota.
A 5 hour bus ride, one hour cab ride, one hour flight and a 30 minute cab ride later and we were there. Our hostel was a very small room, but it had hot water and a comfortable bed. Exactly what we needed, we crashed hard.
The next morning, we woke up and sat in the common area for breakfast. As people filed in, we discovered multiple people that were in Bogota for the same reason. A little band called Pearl Jam. Actually, it was like 8 people.
I’ll admit, Pearl Jam is the closest I come to being a fanatic. Leading up to the show, I was having dreams of hanging with Eddie Vedder. Ed, as he preferred to be called in my dreams. The night before I woke up and swore it was real. This would be my 9th Pearl Jam show, and my first international one. It was also Pearl Jam’s first show in Colombia.
Ed let me know beforehand that they were going on at 8 and that the gates opened at 3pm. Steph and I shared cabs with the other Pearl Jam fans and got to the venue, Simon Bolivar Parque, at 3:15. We split with half the crew, because they only had normal, non fancy person tickets. We stayed with two Dutch girls, that we convinced to upgrade their tickets to VIP. If I thought, I would be front row, I was wrong. Even being 5 hours early, we were only able to get about 25-30 rows back. I guess, I would not be meeting Ed.
5 hours is a long time to stand in one place. And, stand we did. People were packed in and not willing to budge for fear of losing their spot. Each bathroom break, it was harder and harder to get back to our spot. 90 minutes before, I declared no more bathroom breaks and resigned to peeing my pants if necessary.
At 8:30, they went on. And, if I had any doubts about Colombians knowing Pearl Jam, they were instantly assuaged. The crowd was amazing! Remember, they don’t speak English. Yet, they sung every word.
We spent the next 3 hours screaming lyrics, jumping in place and laughing as Eddie tried to speak in Spanish. The crowd willing him through each syllable and erupting in applause when he stumbled through. As usual, Ed also had a message. Throughout the show he spoke of Women’s rights and equality. After the first encore the entire band wore shirts saying ‘For Colombia, free from the violence against Women.’ A dedication to Paris. And praise for the Colombian people and the turn around this country has made.
Aside from my own experience, Pearl Jam themselves were clearly having a great time. Again, I’ve seen them 9 times now. The smiles on their faces, and the enjoyment they got out of their Colombian reception was evident. Ed, choked up, said ‘Thank you for inviting us to a place we’ve never been and giving us a reception we never thought we would receive.’
The above chant continued during every pause during the show. Each time, the band seemed more and more taken aback. ‘Ole ole ole – Pearl Jam’
The show was everything I could have hoped for. And, I can’t wait to see them a tenth time. For Steph, it was her first time and I don’t think it will be her last. Afterwards, she said ‘That was the best show I’ve ever been to’ and simply ‘Wow, I get it!’ I’m grateful that I was able to share the experience with her. And, am always happy to convert a new fan.
It was the perfect way to close out my time in Colombia. I spent 6 weeks in Colombia and had an amazing time. I’m sad to leave. The people were so warm and friendly. The countryside beautiful and the food delicious. It’s my favorite country I’ve travelled in. And, I will be back.
#timtears 
3 Responses to “I will walk into your Jardin”
Just caught up on the blog. Sounds like an amazing time. Love the Tim jokes. Keep em coming!
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Just caught up on your posts. Sounds like so many amazing times and experiences. Love the Tim jokes. Keep em coming!
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Thanks Misha! And thanks for following!
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