Adventure Time
It was time to depart Medillin. Jon and I woke up early to begin the trek to Salento. The early start was evident as the receptionist wiped the sleep from her eyes. Hushed voices could be heard from the couches in the common area, voices that had not yet fallen asleep. Ahead of us lay a cab ride, two busses and a walk. The travel could not have gone better. We quickly hailed a cab, and we arrived 10 minutes prior to departure for each bus.
The scenery on the way to Salento was breathtaking. The Sierra Los Nevados were a vibrant green, overflowing with trees. The river was the color of caramel, with only the whitewater of the rapids revealing it’s power and subsequently betraying the dream of Augustus Gloop.
The town itself is pretty small. As with most places in Colombia, it is centered around the church and the plaza. The plaza contains a variety of bars and restaurants. There is a main street, that is filled with shops selling their wares. Which, seemed to be of a higher quality than other places I’ve been so far.
We would be staying down the hill, away from the square in the Beta Hostel. The Hostel is adjacent to a restaurant/activities corner bearing the same name. We were greeted by the proprietors right away and shown to comfortable, although brightly colored rooms. (My room was a fluorescent pink) Next, we head to the restaurant for some much needed food and relaxation.
Jon and I saddled up for a few games of chess, 1:1 soccer and some mini tejo. In the spirit of honesty, I must say my 6-0 record in chess has fallen to 6-2-1 as I was handily beaten the first two games against Jon. Afterwards, we walked around Salento, found a place to eat and walked up a few hundred stairs for a view of the entire valley. Then, it was off to bed, we had to be up at 6 for some adventuring the next day.
I forced my eyes open at 6:15 AM, confused at what was making that awful sound. It was my alarm. I knew I didn’t have the time or discipline to snooze, so I just sat up and stared into space for a few minutes. I find the older I get, the more noise my body seems to make in protest when I wake up. A few more minutes passed and I was awake and on my way to the plaza to start the day.
In the plaza, there are maybe 20 jeeps lined up and ready to take tourists to a variety of adventures. (coffee tours, hikes, paragliding) Each jeep is open in the back and retrofitted with bench seating. Jon and I walk up and climb into the back of the jeep. The two of us, two German girls and an oddly dressed Frenchman. It was very cramped, but we fit.
I was surprised when the driver informed us, we would not depart until we had 8 people crammed in. The remaining people would stand on the bumper and hold onto the roof. As I’m sitting, trying not to press my legs into anyone else I hear “Can one of the boys give up their seat to a girl?” Jon rises, I stayed seated. Mostly because Jon had already stood up, but I was also in shock at the question. The sass, that accent. Was there another New Yorker in Salento? Indeed there was.
The ride was uneventful, and we exited the jeep safe and sound. We found the trailhead and adopted our New Yorker friend as we set forth.
The trail began as a 4’ wide path of mud. Each step threatened to suck your shoe into the earth. The accompanying squishing sound was at first gross and after a few minutes great. With each step, I realized how fun it is to walk in the mud. It reminded me of jumping in puddles as a kid, and I found myself purposefully aiming for deeper and deeper pools of mud.
Eventually the trail began to rise and we exchanged the mud for rock scrambling and creek crossing. We quickly hopped from rock to rock, discussing travel and all the places each of us has been and plans to be.
The elevation continued to rise, and now we were crossing hastily made bridges over fast running rivers and rapids. With each bridge crossed, our confidence grew and we easily traversed each challenge.
Our conversations seemed to elevate as well. We discussed the importance of meditation, the benefits of positivity and the source of happiness. The trail itself continued to get harder. At 8500’ elevation, I was amazed we were still in a jungle. At that elevation I expected pine trees and a nip in the air and instead saw toucans and cloud forest. We climbed to the top and paid 5000 pesos to enter a hummingbird sanctuary.
The sanctuary was small, mainly a shack with a few feeders out and maybe a dozen birds. Hardly, what we were hoping for.
But, they did serve us hot chocolate and a rather thick slice of cheese. 2 hours into the hike and we learned our New York friend’s name is Jackie. The three of us sat for fifteen minutes and I watched the variety of hummingbirds feed, wondering if there is some negative effect to giving these animals such an easy to acquire food source.
The next portion of the hike was very difficult. Steep, (very steep) switchbacks prevailed for the next 3 km. There seemed to be no end in sight, and the now 9000’ elevation did not help matters. However, we prevailed and reached the top where we enjoyed a much deserved brown bag lunch, packed by our respective breakfast spots. (Jackie’s lunch included a handwritten note from the owner of Brunch (a local restaurant) which was a really nice touch, and had me disappointed that mine didn’t contain the same.
The route down was extremely pleasant. A light rain cooled us off, and the mist, although blocking the view, added a bit of magic to the hike. As we continued down, we found a small trail that led to a grassy knoll overlooking the entire valley. In perfect cooperation, the mist cleared and we sat down to enjoy the view. I thought this was a good time for a musical interlude and played “Down in the Valley” by The Head and the Heart while we practiced handstands and various yoga poses. It was a beautiful moment. But, like all things it was temporary and the rain began again in earnest.
The rest of the hike consisted of an easy, slightly down hill walk on a wide dirt road. At the end, we found a jeep and head back into town. We bid Jackie farewell, and head directly to conquer the next challenge. A finca, or coffee farm, tour.
The highlight of the coffee tour was the opportunity to pick the beans from the actual bushes. The guide informed the group (about 10 people) to disperse and pick as many red ‘cherries’ as you can. She even told us, the further up the hill, the more you are likely to find. We sledged through the rain, pushed through wet bushes and reached deep into the heart of the finca in our search for those sweet cherries. The whistle sounded, and we returned triumphantly to the group as the guide instructed us to pour our baskets into the grinder for measurement. The tension was palpable as each person emptied their respective baskets. Empty, empty, empty, two, empty. The guide was certainly questioning our worth. Luckily, Jon and I pulled through and represented the true working spirit of America. Victory was ours, and we would remain ‘teachers pets’ for the remainder of the tour. The coffee itself, was wonderful. Especially, considering the amount of hiking, climbing and picking we had completed throughout the day.
The next morning, we woke up early and packed our things. One of the nice things about traveling light, is that the longest it takes to get ready is five minutes. Time to go paragliding! Although twice as expensive and half the time of the San Gil flight, it was still fun. Jon jumped first, and I had to wait by myself at the jump site for over an hour. It was a beautiful view and very relaxing; I sat and just read my book and listened to music the whole time. Then, it was my turn to jump. I’m a pro now, so I wasn’t really nervous. By the time I jumped the cloud cover was complete, so the first few minutes I couldn’t see 3 feet in front of me. Then, suddenly, it was clear. Similar to the cave, it’s amazing how being blinded and then able to see enhances the experience. We flew the rest of the way down and successfully landed in a waist high grass field.
Next we head to the bus stop and for Guatape. A small town, with the notable feature of being located on a lake and near a giant monolith rock that juts out of the land and offers expansive, epic views. The climb up the rock consisted of 740 steps at an elevation of 7000 feet. It was hard, but not impossible. The views were mesmerizing the entire time. Starting early, meant we were the first and only ones at the top for a while. Which, I didn’t fully appreciate it until there were 15 more people up there. El Piedra (the rock) is the self proclaimed ‘most beautiful view in the world.’ I’m not sure that’s true. The view was somewhat diminished by a giant ugly hotel to the south. It’s this expansive white building, with maybe a small waterpark on the property. It is definitely an eye sore compared to the green of the trees, the brown of the mountains and the blues and whites of the sky. Still, we got some great pictures.
Time for another bus. As we descended to the main road, we were approached by taxi drivers offering to drive us anywhere. ‘No gracias’ and a hand wave and we sat town in the shade against an old shack. This may sound strange, but it was the most authentic Colombian experiences I’ve had. Sitting with our heads back, after doing a tough climb. Waving off the taxi and waiting with the locals. We knew how the system worked, and we were a part of it. And I think the people around us felt that and let their guard down. If I wanted the feeling of being a part of the culture, it happened at that bus stop.
The next bus ride was a gift. We had comfortable seats, no one sitting next to us, no traffic and when we were hungry, we were suddenly stopped at a shack and getting chicken kebobs and french fries. Oh, peanut m&ms to go please.
At the actual stop, which is just the side of the road, was more of a challenge. There was a seemingly impossible process of check-in, leaving me extra frustrated. We were Colombian a few minutes ago, and now we are Gringos.
An hour later:
We checked into our hostel. The hostel is located on a nature preserve. It’s an open-air cabin, facing the rushing Rio Claro. It’s by far the most unique landscape I have ever seen. The river cut a deep path through the surrounding mountains, which tower above like tree-lined skyscrapers. The sounds are non-stop. Birds, bugs, and bats. The air is thick. Nothing drys here because it is so humid. Including your skin, I’ve been dripping sweat since arrival. Time for a swim.
We set our bags down and walked about 30 minutes down a winding jungle path, climbing rocks and trees as we maneuver around various obstacles. We dip into the river, and our questions about ‘why is there a rope going across’ are answered as the current nearly sweeps us away. It was not going so hard that we were in danger, more just amazed at the steadiness and gentle strength of the river. We took a sneak peek into the cave we are exploring tomorrow. It’s going to be scary as fuck. And continued to swim.
Dinner time, 6-8. I know that because for some reason when checking in they gave us dinner details 30 times. From our cabin, it’s a 10 minute walk through the jungle in pitch black. Good thing Jon brought 2 flashlights, because without them, you can not see 1 foot in front of you. Dinner was great, or we were really hungry. Ended the night with Jon continuing his reign in chess. Back to the room and time to write. It’s proving very difficult, because the light from my computer is attracting an endless stream of mosquitoes and other flying bugs. Questioning why they don’t have mosquito nets, or blankets, we fall asleep. I find myself wondering, if maybe, this is a little too Colombian. And wake up grateful for the experience as I sit watching the sunrise over the mountains.
#timtears 
2 Responses to “Adventure Time”
Loved this blog! Sounds like you and Jon are having an awesome time!
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Same some room for later, Augustus.
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