You might as well row that boat

And then there were two

Welcome to Medillin!  It took an overnight 11 hour bus ride.  Actually, it took an overnight, 11 hour bus ride next to a drunk, porn watching, cigarette smoking paisa.  Luckily, I was seated in the last row, next to the bathroom in a seat that didn’t recline.  Needless to say, it was a lovely ride.

Upon arrival, I quickly boarded the metro and head toward El Poblado, the neighborhood I would be staying.  I arrived during rush hour and was amazed at how crowded it was.  At each stop, the doors would open and it was a human can of pillsbury biscuits.

A 15 minute metro ride, and a 15 minute walk later I was at the Happy Buddha hostel in Poblado.  I reserved a private room and was greatly looking forward to closing my eyes for a few hours before Jon (my oldest friend) arrived.  Sadly, I could not check in until 3 PM.  No rest for the weary.  Instead, I enjoyed a long brunch and coffee.  Desperate for sleep, I came back to see if I could check in early.  No dice.  So, I plopped down on the couch and fell into a deep slumber for 2 hours.  It’s a testament to how truly tired I was, that I was able to sleep so deeply in public.

Jon arrived safely, and after a late lunch we started to explore the city.  The first thing we did was hop on the metro and take the cable car to it’s highest point.  The car provided views of the entire expanded city and beyond.  It was a great way to view the entire city.

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Next, we stopped in  Botero Square.  Fernando  Botero is the most successful Colombian artist of all time.  He is known for his ‘fat’ sculptures.  Which, are not in fact fat, but disproportionate.  Here we met Victo(u)r.  A tour guide, that was offering descriptions about the city.  In the beginning, we weren’t sure if he was maybe panhandling, but he actually was a professional docent and gave us some great tips.  I spent an inordinate amount of time staring at his business card and wondering how proud he was of the “Victo(u)r” spelling.  He offered to give us a full Victo(u)r the next day, but we politely refused.  (More to come on him later)

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For dinner, we had a typical Colombian dish called Mondongo.  Which is a soup with chicken, banana, avocado, cilantro, arepa, rice and vegetables.  It was delicious and filling and perfect for a rainy night.

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After dinner, we returned to the Happy Buddha to a huge party.  DJ, drinks and tons of people.  It felt less like a Colombian hostel and more like a trendy LA bar.  It wasn’t exactly what we were looking for.  But, as we were walking in I noticed a couple from Netherlands that were at my last hostel in San Gil and that went on the rafting trip with me.  It was great to see their faces, funny at what a small world it can be.  We agreed to have a beer before going to sleep.  7 beers, 4 games of ping pong and 8 games of pool later and it was time for bed.


The next morning it was rise and shine early.  We attended a four hour walking tour of the city.  The tour consisted of 12 stops around the downtown area of Medillin, with our guide educating us on the history of the city and country.  It was informative and entertaining, if not a little long.  Towards the end of the tour Victo(u)r poked his head into our group.  Jon and I did our best to avoid eye contact and any awkward encounters.  I’d say successfully.  We must have just looked like another couple of gringos.

After the tour, we hopped on the metro towards the Futbol stadium.  Medellin (the local team) vs. Millionjares. (the bad guys)  Jon and I bought a couple of jerseys and tickets for behind the goal in the rowdy section, although on the outskirts of it.  The crazy fans are all directly behind the net, and for them it is nonstop jumping and fist pumping and singing.  The game itself was very exciting, with Medillin winning 2-0.  Here is the goal that sealed the deal.

One of my favorite moments, was after the game a fan streaked onto the field.  And the player gave him a hug and walked around with him for a few seconds.  (Then security escorted him to soccer jail)  We left the stadium in on piece and went out to a great dinner in Poblado.  After that, we hung out at the hostel and played pool until it was time for bed.


We woke up early and left Medillin en route to Salento.  I don’t dare the travel gods, but it was a perfectly smooth day of travel. We easily navigated 3 different bus changes and arrived at the perfect time for each one.  We arrived at our hostel as some poor weather rolled in.  So, we hung out and had lunch and played some games.  I regretfully report, that my luck in chess did not carry over against Jon.  (2 losses and a stalemate)

At night, we walked into a local Billiards hall.  This was definitely NOT a LA party.  The mustache game was strong, the cowboy hat game stronger.  Playing pool made me miss Grandpa.  And how he would talk shit the whole time.  “Oh, he doesn’t like the long shots” “I got this, just gonna put sum English on it”  and then he would drop a deadly gasser.  The memories always make me smile.  Now, if I could just get his luck and knack for winning when money is on the line.

3 Responses to “And then there were two”

  1. Shane-O's avatar Shane-O

    Another brilliant entry. Grandpa Joe stories always get me. Love finishing with a good laugh.

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  2. Shane-O's avatar Shane-O

    Also that futbol match is rowdier than a bunch of high school kids at Coachella on a Sunday.

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