I’ve always depended on the kindness of strangers
Last we heard, I was recovering from food poisoning and cats and a city I hated. I gladly said goodbye to Bucaramanga and took a bus to a beautiful hostel nestled in the mountains called ‘Refugio la Roca.’ The hostel, contains a series of cabins and tree houses that rest precariously on the face of a cliff. For 3 days and 2 nights, I was surrounded by stunning views, friendly people and serenity.
The majority of my days were spent reading and relaxing and enjoying the views. I alternated between sun and shade and back from shade to sun.
The majority of the travelers were staying as a launching point for the regions rock climbing. I felt slightly obligated to do something other then eat and relax, so I scheduled time with one of the guides, and we were off. It was about a 2 km trek to the base of the climb. As I followed the guide, I thought to myself ‘this is a little too fast for me’ which really meant, way faster than I was comfortable with. Especially considering it was on exposed single track. (read cliff face) But, we made it to the base of the climb unscathed. My guide, Niko, quickly scaled the 5.9 (difficulty rating) 30 meter climb and dropped down to let me know it was my turn. It’s been a while, but I roped in and was ready to go.
The climb was challenging, but not impossible. And before I knew it, I had reached the top. That’s 90 feet from Niko and another several hundred feet down after that. My hands and legs were shaking like a leaf. I decided to forego the selfie at the top, until Niko reminded me to take it. I couldn’t communicate that my hands were shaking so much, I wasn’t sure I could even hold my phone in my hand. In the end, I did it. Albeit, very carefully.
I safely reached the bottom, and declared my adrenaline rush fulfilled. (I did end up doing another climb, and was a lot less nervous the second time.) There was an Australian ex-pat climbing the same routes and we were all talking surfing, climbing and all things extreme. The joy of sitting on solid ground post adrenaline rush was indescribable.
I spent the next few hours relaxing, eating pasta and enjoying a few Colombia beers.
The remainder of the evening was spent chatting with the Aussies. He had moved here for work almost 3 years ago, and was visiting the hostel for the weekend with his son. About an hour into the conversation, he breaks out a small bag of what I think is raisins. He asked me if I had tried ‘Hormigas Culonas’ yet. “Not yet, what is it”
It’s roasted ants. Big, fat roasted ants. “People eat them as a snack, they are everywhere in this region.” Well, I reached my hand into the bag, pulled out two and crunched on em. Not bad. It tasted a bit like a pistachio. It was a little gross, when it was stuck in my teeth. But, I even enjoyed a few more. It’s also seen as an aphrodisiac, although I didn’t notice I was any hornier than usual.
After that, the 3 of us took turns playing chess. Winner stays on. So, after playing six games in a row, it was time for me to go to sleep. [*humble brag*]
I slept like a rock. It rained overnight and all morning, which was a perfect excuse to stay in my little one person tree house and sleep. I’m a little bummed, because the sunrise is supposed to be stunning, but it was rainy each morning. My first night, I woke up and was planning on taking a photo every minute. But, after a few minutes it quickly turned to rain. Here is a glimpse of what I hoped to see.
Refugio la Roca was exactly what I needed, a literal and figurative ‘breath of fresh air.’ I was sad and hesitant to leave. But, it was on to the next adventure!
In order to leave the hostel, I had to take a 1 hour bus ride to a town called Piedecuesta. Once there, I would need to take a 3 hour bus ride to San Gil. Lonely Planet calls San Gil “The outdoor capital of Colombia, and a mecca for extreme sports enthusiasts.”
The first bus stopped in Piedecuesta, but not at the bus station. As I stood there considering my next move, these two women approached me and asked me where I was going. It turns out, they are both going to San Gil. They seemed like two nice women and were very friendly. The three of us boarded the next bus and were on our way. Throughout the next twenty minutes, we chatted as best I can in Spanish and told my story, and answered what questions I could. We stopped in a small town Floridablanca, where we had to walk to the next bus stop. It was around this time, that I discovered they were not going to San Gil until tomorrow. Oops. But, they said they would take me to the bus stop before going to their own house. We even stopped on the way for a bit of food. I’m not sure what it was called, but it was two waffle wafers and in between was stuffed queso, jam, whipped cream and heaven. The three of us walked down the road to the bus stop. They were so excited for me for my trip and so positive. ‘Aventurero’ they exclaimed!
We briefly stopped on an overpass to exchange Facebook info and take a selfie. OK, attempt to take a selfie. The sun was right in our eyes, people were walking by and traffic was flying by. After several attempts by each of us, this was the best I can do.
I really hope they add me on Facebook, and that they understand how grateful I am for their help and kindness. One thing I’ve learned while traveling is this. Always be kind to travelers. When you need help, you will be glad for the karma. I’m excited to get back to Venice and offer the same kindness to others visiting the area.
In Kindergarten, my first full day of school, I was left on the bus. I’m not sure if I was asleep, or too quiet. But, the driver drove right past the stop with me still on the bus. I spent the next few hours stuck, in a supermarket parking lot by myself on a big yellow bus. Now, they have rules that the drivers have to ‘sweep’ the bus. I like to think that’s partially because of me. So, apparently there is something with me and busses.
I was told it was a 3 hour journey to San Gil. 2 hours into the ride we stopped and a few people got out. No announcement, no sign. I assumed that it wasn’t San Gil. I assumed wrong. Something didn’t feel right, so I turned on my phone and glanced at the map. And, it was San Gil. We were now a 20 minute bus ride in the wrong direction. Down, a narrow dark road with nothing in between. I informed the bus driver and he let me out on this road. In hindsight, I should have just stayed on the bus until we reached the next town. I didn’t think of that, plus I had no idea where the next stop was.
Well, now I’m walking in the dark, on a narrow road in the middle of nowhere. I check my phone, it’s a 45 minute walk to San Gil. I figured, I would see something about 30 minutes into the walk, so I start walking. Within a few minutes, two dogs come screaming at me, nipping at my heels. I didn’t think they were going to bite me, so I just kept walking and showed no fear. They eventually stopped chasing me and left me alone. The next set of dogs was not so friendly. This time, I turned around and stood as tall as I can, hands in the air and screamed at the top of my lungs. It scared them enough, that they kept their distance and were content to just bark at me. Crisis averted. Next, I went into the woods and found a big stick. Speak softly and carry a big stick. That’s what I always say.
Ten minutes later, I saw a house and a few people sitting outside. I walked up, trying not to look like I just sat in a sardine can of a bus for two hours, and another 20 minutes trying not to have a panic attack. I smiled and said “Que mas!” I explained my situation, and asked if they could call a taxi for me. They poured me a glass of ice water and asked me about my trip for the ten minutes before my taxi arrived. The guy seemed to think I was a fool, the woman cautiously approved. The child, seemed indifferent. The cab driver took me to my hostel safe and sound. And, now I’m enjoying wifi and writing this post. The hostel is great. Owned by another Aussie, who is also helping organize several adventures. Tomorrow, white water rafting!








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These are the things that try travelers’ souls, and make us stronger.
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