Adventures in eco-tourism
I spent a relaxing night in the downtown area of Medellin, cheering on Colombia in the World Cup qualifier and enjoying a huge bowl of Mondongo. It was my second visit to this restaurant and the staff recognized me. High fives were exchanged as Colombia scored and managed to tie Chile. I opted for a hotel, over a shared room in a hostel and a bed, air-conditioning and hot shower were amenities I did not take for granted. I spent the morning in bed, relaxing and contemplating my next move.
As I sipped my coffee on the rooftop of my hotel, I received a text message from my French friends that I met in Rio Claro. Their flight to Bahia Solano was cancelled by the airline and would not be rescheduled. However, they were able to commission a charter plane and wanted to know if I was interested in joining them. A private plane, an isolated destination. Sign me up.
The experience of reserving the plane was very Colombian. We were required to deliver the payment in cash, and our tickets consisted of our names being written down on a piece of paper. I’ll admit, to feeling a bit of trepidation as I handed my money over. I arrived at the airport, wondering if we had been bamboozled. However, we were clearly expected, and were kindly greeted at the terminal.
After our greeting, we were asked to step on a scale with our luggage, to make sure we were not overweight. Apparently, our plane was small enough, that weight and balance are a legitimate concern. Luckily, my light backpack compensated for my recent Paisa meals. We quickly breezed through security and, as usual, I’m amazed at how much more courteous and pleasant airport security outside of the USA. They were just as thorough without the rudeness.
Next, we walked onto the runway. I spotted a few small prop planes, but knew those were far too big. Finally, we turn a corner and see our plane. Adventure confirmed! The plane sat 7 people total, including the two pilots. I sat in the back middle, a place that was typically reserved for luggage. I thought myself the anchor, balancing the weight of the plane. It was a cool experience to be able to watch the pilots actually fly, and to see what’s involved. I’d like to say I really enjoyed it, but, the bottle of water I chugged and cup of coffee I added to it, was causing my bladder to feel as if it would explode at any moment. Turbulence bullied the plane around, and I thought to myself ‘At least if we crash, I’d have an excuse to pee my pants.’
Our altitude dropped, and I could see the jungle mountains growing closer through the small window. I was not aware that we would be landing in a valley so high up, and was startled/relieved as we abruptly landed. I quickly de-boarded, and rushed to the open air bathroom to pee for the next eternity. Welcome to Bahia Solano, a small town in the Choco district of Colombia.
The Choco district of Colombia is the poorest, and most isolated region of the country. The primary reason is geographical. It’s difficult to get here. There is no road, as the approach from the east is dense jungle and steep mountains. The lack of transport makes it impossible for the region to export anything. Here it is a game of survival. The second reason is the weather. Bahia Solano is considered the wettest region in the world, receiving around 24’ of rainfall each year. That’s compared to the 15 inches of Los Angeles, and the relatively dry 38″ of Seattle. In other words, building a road through that jungle, would prove impossible.
Our destination was outside of Bahia Solano, a 45 minute cab ride to ‘El Almejal’ a rainforest and beach eco-tourism reserve. The reserve consists of a main reception area/restaurant, 8 open air cabins, a small farm, and natural swimming pool. All a few steps from the beach and the Pacific Ocean.
First, I can’t mention the food here enough. It is by far, the best food I’ve had in Colombia and some of the best meals I’ve ever eaten. The vegetables are all grown on site, so are very fresh. The fish, is caught daily from the sea. And the desert is fruits picked off of trees on the reserve. I’ve eaten every single morsel of food and beverage presented to me.
The wildlife on the reserve is also incredible. Prehistoric basilisks that stand up to run on two legs. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see them run on water.
A wide variety of birds that define new colors. Fire ants, work endlessly to pull leaves and carry them over a kilometer up hill to their nest. And the reserve is also a refuge for sea turtles. Each night, volunteers walk the beach, gather eggs and bring them to a safe location on the reserve. Our first day, we watched the eggs hatch and carried the baby turtles to the beach. Once there, we helped the lil guys into the Pacific. Although only a few will survive in the wild, the ones that do will return in 20 years and leave their own babies. I jokingly suggested we name each of them. I secretly named just one. Lucy. I hope she makes it.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing and eating. The rain is so pleasant to fall asleep to. Our first night, there were severe thunderstorms. I’ve never experienced anything like it. All night, my cabin shook with thunder. My eyes would open and the entire room would be lit with lightning. The rain, falling hard on the tin roof.
Fun Fact: 12% of Colombia’s total land consists of National Parks.
Utria, the National park we would be visiting was very special. It exists on a protected peninsula off the Pacific. The jungle creeps almost into the ocean. Mangroves (which prefer the mixture of salt and freshwater) have travelled from Asia to South America through the ocean. Sharks, humpback whales, turtles and a number of other creatures all migrate to the peninsula every year in order to mate and give birth. Unfortunately, we missed the arrival of the whales, but the beauty of this place was no less awe inspiring.
I’m so grateful that I met my travel companions. Juan, Juan and Lawrence. Since Rio Claro, they have been patiently translating, and helping me make my way through Colombia. Without them, I would never have been able to travel to this beautiful location. Enjoyed this delicious food. Or laughed as much as I have in the past few days.
The morning of my birthday, I was greeted by them, along with the rest of the travelers here, singing my ‘Feliz cumpleanos.’ I was a little embarrassed, but very much appreciated it.
We made our way to Utria and walked through the Mangrove forrest. Our tour guide, pointing out wildlife, pre-historic trees, and telling funny stories. As the guide was speaking I couldn’t help but notice his permanent smile. The same smile that he seemingly shares with every other local I’ve encountered. I want to know what secret they hold. This place is a challenge to live. Every aspect of it is hard. Yet, they all walk through life happy, always smiling. At the very least, it’s inspiring and humbling.
The only other tourists at the park were three rather large Colombian men. Their bodies, a stark contrast from the 0% fat residents of Bahia Solano. The volume of their voices, directly correlated to the amount of whiskey added to their coffee. At first, they were pretty standoffish to me. Things changed when two beautiful local girls walked by and they excitedly got my attention. “I’m not blind” I told them in Spanish and said, “what do you think I’ve been looking at this whole time?” They laughed, and offered me the bottle of whiskey, which I poured directly into my mouth for several seconds. Cheers and high fives abound. “Hoy, es mi cumpleanos!” More cheers and another shot. It was not lost on me that it was 9:30 AM. But, when in Choco…
My last birthday gift was from another traveller.
There is no service, or wifi at the reserve. Which, I was not aware of and thus did not inform anyone else. After 2 days, I began imagining that people might be nervous. Considering that my last communication was ‘I’m going to get on a small flight with some people I met in the jungle.’ I imagine my Mom, nervous about every step I take in Colombia. My girlfriend, worrying and wanting to wish me happy birthday. And, I imagine Adam calmly reassuring them ‘I’m sure he is fine, probably just doesn’t have service’ But, I could feel their concern. Another traveller, must have felt mine. She offered me her Colombia phone, which somehow had service to call the US, and said ‘Happy birthday’ It was the perfect gift.
We were scheduled to fly out the next day. However, after another night of torrential rain, our flight was cancelled. I was ready to return to civilization. Hot water, wifi and windows awaited me! I wanted our plane to just push through. I should be careful what I wish for. Three other flights took off and crashed. Including this one, which I watched load and take off.
Another night in Bahia Solano was not so bad in comparison. We took off the next day, this time on a plane holding 20 people. Security, was non-existent. Choose your own seat. There were no flight attendants giving presentations about what to do in case of a crash. The pilot started the engines, said ‘buckle up’ and we took off. The pilot quickly said ‘Turn off your electronics and buckle your seat belts’ and we were in the air.
The view from the air was stunning. There is nothing between Medellin and Bahia Solano but mountains and jungle. This area of the world is the most wild I have ever seen. Flying over the jungle was overwhelming. It was like being in a time machine and seeing the world before humans. It left me in awe at the vastness and the beauty of Earth. It was very humbling.
My jungle adventures are over for a while. I’m back in Medellin, and spending the night in a nice hotel. I showered with a hot water cascade. Dropped my laundry off to wash the jungle and bug spray off of my clothes. And am relaxing by nice a nice body of water. Adios!
#timtears 
One Response to “Adventures in eco-tourism”
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️so glad no harm came to you. It sounded awesome once you were there.
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